An Indian-origin chef is bringing the flavours of India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Nepal, Trinidad, and Guyana to New York

With Drāvida, Aarthi Sampath explores how South Asian food travels, evolves, and connects different communities across the diaspora.

offline

After seven years of developing Drāvida, Indian-origin chef Aarthi Sampath brings her journey from Mumbai to New York to the table, weaving regional Indian cuisines with influences from Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Nepal, Trinidad, Guyana, and beyond. She talks about finding inspiration across cultures and creating a restaurant where innovation, comfort, and community come together.


Harper's Bazaar: You first conceived Drāvida in 2019, and it is finally coming to life in New York. How have the concept and your own cooking evolved over those seven years?

Aarthi Sampath: Back in 2019, I was less informed, but I knew instinctively that I wanted to create a restaurant focused on South Asia and the Indian diaspora. When I moved to the United States about 15 years ago, I naturally connected with every Desi I met, whether they were from Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, or part of diaspora communities farther away. We shared stories of home, our cultures, the festivals we celebrated and the food we ate. We broke bread together.

Over the years, that instinct grew into something much more deeply researched and fully developed. My cooking evolved with it: I became more curious, intentional, and committed to understanding cuisines beyond what I already knew, from Uyghur food to the cuisines of Fiji and South Africa. Drāvida could not have become what it is today without those years of learning, exploring, and dedicating myself to making the concept as thoughtful and beautiful as possible.


HB: Drāvida brings together regional Indian cuisines with influences from Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Nepal, Trinidad, Guyana, and beyond. What does the South Asian diaspora mean to you personally, and why was it important to tell that story through food?

AS: When you leave home, you seek connection and identity. You look for friendship, community, and a sense of family. For me, moving to New York meant connecting with everyone. I found pieces of home in eating doubles with my Guyanese brothers and sisters, discovering connections in South African and Ethiopian food, and tasting Nepali momos that feel completely different from Chinese dumplings—almost Indian-Chinese, and so distinctly South Asian. The diaspora is about people holding on to their culture wherever they go, while also allowing it to evolve in a new home. Through Drāvida, I want to amplify those voices and celebrate the food and stories that keep us connected.

HB: You grew up in Mumbai and have spent more than a decade cooking in New York. How have these two cities shaped your identity as a chef, and how much of Mumbai can we taste in Drāvida?

AS: Mumbai is one of India's most multicultural cities, and that diversity shaped my curiosity from a very young age. It began with school lunchbox exchanges; I never wanted to eat my own lunch. I wanted my Gujarati friends’ thepla, the Maharashtrian snacks I would steal, or the samosas from the canteen. Mumbai’s street food introduced me to flavours and cultures beyond my own and taught me that food is one of the easiest ways to connect with people.

Moving from one diverse, metropolitan city to another felt like perfect harmony. New York felt like another Mumbai to me, fast, chaotic, multicultural, and full of food from everywhere. Mumbai gave me my foundation, and New York expanded my understanding of what that foundation could become. You can taste both cities throughout Drāvida.


HB: The menu includes dishes such as Idli & Clams, Choriz Pão, Oxtail Bunny Chow and Crab Curry Ramen. What draws you to unexpected combinations, and how do you balance innovation with the integrity of a dish’s roots?

AS: The first thing we focus on is flavour. The food must be flavourful, delicious, and fresh, while still feeling familiar. We never skimp on spices. My parents ship spices to me every month, so they are incredibly fresh. We combine them with local herbs and seasonal ingredients to make the food even more exciting.

Innovation is essential because food should bring surprise and joy. I love being creative, but that creativity can never come at the expense of a dish’s roots. The dishes may not sound or look familiar at first, but once guests take a bite, they recognise something comforting in the flavours. We have guests who have returned three, four, or even five times, and we have been open for less than four months. That speaks volumes.

Lead image: Pexels 

Also read: Celebrate monsoon by tasting shades of green at India's finest restaurant

Also read: Where India eats now: The tables shaping a new dining culture

Read more!
Advertisement