A new tasting menu meets a reimagined dining space as Masque enters The Second Act

A decade after opening in Mumbai, one of India’s most acclaimed restaurants is entering a new chapter, with a reimagined space and a menu rooted in memory, regional ingredients, and culinary experimentation. Head chef Varun Totlani reflects on how his cooking has evolved, what it means to cook from memory, and what lies ahead for Indian fine dining.

Harper's Bazaar: Masque began with the question, “What does India taste like?” Ten years on, what question were you asking yourself while creating this new menu?

Varun Totlani: Ten years ago, Masque began with a simple question: ‘What does India taste like?’ Back then it was about championing ingredients that deserved a hero’s welcome on Indian plates. Eventually, that question has evolved, celebrating India through a rich tapestry of flavours, spices, ingredients and techniques. With every new menu, the only thought in our minds is introducing a new chapter in the celebration of India by striking the perfect balance of ingredients, tastes, flavours, and presentation. 

Whether we are introducing diners to entirely new flavours or reimagining familiar ones with unexpected techniques, every menu is an ongoing celebration of our country’s incredible diversity.

HB: You’ve described the new menu as your “boldest menu yet” and a meal cooked from memory. What does “cooking from memory” mean to you? Please share a few examples. 

VT: I think stripping down a sold-out restaurant and rebuilding it from scratch after ten years is a pretty bold move. But even a decade in, we still want to keep pushing boundaries—not just for our guests, but for ourselves as a team.

To me, cooking from memory is not just about nostalgia but also about lived experience. This menu definitely has hints of it as well. Take something like Doodh Soda, that’s a refreshing drink my mom used to make to cool your body down, and now it’s actually on our menu. Or my personal love for Bombay duck, which we’ve turned into an intriguing papad. And then there's our signature and guest favourite, the corn chai, which just instantly takes you back to eating bhutta grilled right on the charcoal are just some of the many examples. 

HB: Masque has always been about discovering India through its ingredients. How has your understanding of Indian ingredients and regional food changed since you first joined the restaurant as a young commis chef?

VT: Masque has always been about discovering and celebrating India—definitely through its ingredients, but just as much through its people, culture, and traditions. Having joined Masque as a young commis chef, the restaurant and I have grown up and evolved together, discovering our styles side by side.

Over the years, I have travelled a lot, which has allowed me a chance to better understand and experience the food, ingredients, culture, and techniques firsthand across different regions of our country before bringing all of that back to the table at Masque. Starting out in a junior position offered me a completely unique perspective. Seeing the entire journey firsthand—and now stepping into the role of head chef and crafting every menu—gives me a much deeper understanding of where we've been and what the way ahead looks like. Plus, over the years, talking to guests, brand friends, and food critics—everyone has their own interpretation of Indian cuisine—understanding those different perspectives really helps shape the way we curate our menus.

HB: This is a new chapter for Masque, but not a complete departure from what came before. What elements of the original Masque did you feel were essential to carry into the Second Act?

VT: In this Second Act, whilst everything has changed, what remains at the heart of it are the people whom we have carried forward into this new chapter. Our team is what has made Masque what it is today with their passion and hard work. Rather than a 'second act,' it is a new chapter in the beautiful story that Masque has written itself into—a reimagined space that complements the new sequence of service and culinary narrative, yet the core philosophies and the 'Masque way of life' are the threads that bind our past to our future.  

HB: How different is the new menu technically and creatively from the menus Masque has presented over the last decade? Are there any new techniques or ideas you’re particularly excited about?

VT: We release a new menu every few months, and given India’s incredible diversity, we constantly challenge ourselves to find fresh techniques and new ways to interpret the ingredients we’ve grown to love. While we are fortunate to host international guests who come to celebrate the flavours of India, we also maintain a very loyal local following. Our goal with every menu, therefore, is to offer them something fresh—not a departure, but a deepening of the Masque narrative.

Technically and creatively, this feels like our most mature chapter yet. If the last decade was about discovering what India tastes like, this menu blends the nostalgia of lived experience with the technical precision we have honed over the years. We are also continuing to experiment by borrowing techniques from one regional cuisine and applying them to another, which often yields the most surprising results.

For me, the excitement isn't in 'reinventing' Indian food, but in widening the lens through which our guests view it. While we have signature styles that guests have come to know and love, each new menu must spark that same sense of curiosity and excitement. It is about keeping our spirit playful and dynamic, ensuring that even as we evolve, every visit offers a new discovery.

HB: The new space puts the kitchen at the heart of the dining room. Does being more visible to diners change the way you and your team think about service, performance, and the overall experience?

VT: It hasn't changed our approach to service, but it has certainly shifted the dynamic. Previously, we welcomed guests into the kitchen to break the ice, especially when they weren't sure what to expect from the experience. Now, with the kitchen front and centre, the team is visible from the moment our guests take their seats.

Masque has always been designed as a theatrical experience—a restaurant that moves in acts and reveals itself slowly, much like a masquerade. Before, the stage was hidden behind a curtain, and we would emerge to greet you. By opening that stage, we’ve made the process of creation visible. Our service standards remain the same, but there is now a heightened awareness that the curtain has been pulled back; the stage is open, and we are performing for our guests all night long.

HB: Masque has built deep relationships with farmers and producers across India. Were there any particular ingredients, regions, or producers that inspired this new menu?

VT: Our relationships with farmers and producers across the country are the bedrock of everything we do at Masque. For this menu, inspiration didn’t just come from discovering the lesser-known; it came from reimagining the familiar.

Take jasmine, for instance. It’s woven into the very fabric of Indian culture, and its intense, evocative aroma is something you can’t miss even when walking through a flower market! The challenge here was balancing that powerful fragrance so it elevates the dessert without overpowering the palate.

Similarly, red tamarind from Andhra Pradesh inspired our take on Pachi Pulusu, an uncooked rasam. It’s a beautiful way to highlight the ingredient's raw, sharp acidity. Sometimes, the most rewarding work isn't about sourcing a hidden rarity, but about changing our relationship with an everyday staple. Our Bombay duck course is the perfect example—we have used a technique to cook the whole fish until it becomes thin and crispy, almost like a papad. It’s a reminder that if you look closely enough, even the most traditional ingredients have new stories to tell.

HB: After 10 years of constantly pushing yourself creatively, how do you avoid repeating yourself? Is there pressure to make every new menu bigger or more ambitious than the last?  

VT: There is no pressure to simply make every menu 'bigger.' Instead, I like to believe in a simple mantra - we want to be a little better than we were the day before. It’s an incremental climb, and we have found that as long as we maintain our curiosity and ambition, the rest naturally follows.

Regarding repetition—I don't necessarily view it as something to avoid. When you develop a technique that becomes a signature, it’s natural—and important—to continue refining and applying it. If you look at the best chefs across the world, their most iconic techniques often become more famous than the chefs themselves. That is the ultimate goal: to create something that takes on a life of its own, becoming 'something newborn' that stands the test of time. 

HB: Masque is now an established name with major international recognition, but you joined when it was still finding its identity. How has your own cooking and your idea of what Indian fine dining can be evolved alongside the restaurant?

VT: My early years were spent deeply immersing myself in the landscape of Indian ingredients, learning the boundaries of what this cuisine could become. Over the past few years, however, that dynamic has shifted. As I have taken the helm, Masque has become a reflection of what I consider an Indian tasting menu to be. 

Building Masque into the brand it is today has been deeply personal. I’ve come to realise that for me, a great Indian tasting menu isn't just a series of dishes; it’s a story. Ultimately, we aim to widen the lens through which our guests view Indian cuisine, ensuring that every course is an evolution of that conversation. 

HB: If the first decade of Masque was about discovering what India tastes like, what do you hope the next decade tastes, feels and looks like?

VT: To be honest, a single decade isn't nearly enough time to truly discover what India tastes like—we’ve barely scratched the surface. The next ten years won’t just be about 'more' of what we did previously, but about delving significantly deeper.

I see the future of Masque moving well beyond the walls of the restaurant. We have found incredible inspiration in curated experiences like 'Masque at Nahargarh,' and I would love to see us create moments that celebrate India not just through the plate, but through the amalgamation of our diverse nature, music, and culture. We want to be a vessel for the country’s spirit in a way that feels holistic and immersive. If the first decade was about establishing our culinary voice, the next is about amplifying that voice by connecting our guests to the very landscapes, rhythms, and traditions that inspire us.

Images: The brand

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