What to wear when you don’t know the dress code—but still want to impress

In an era where every wedding has a colour story, every launch party has a theme and every birthday dinner comes with a mood board, getting dressed often feels like following instructions. There’s guidance, references, and a ready-made aesthetic. And then there’s real life. A coffee that might turn into a meeting. A lunch that stretches into cocktails. A date with nothing more specific than "8 pm?"

When there aren’t any instructions, the pressure is oddly greater. You don’t want to look overdressed, but you definitely don’t want to look like you didn’t try at all. We spoke to fashion insiders about the formulas that work every time, no matter how unclear the plan.

Elevated basics are the real safety net

When the brief is unclear, restraint is often the smartest strategy. Celebrity stylist Aastha Sharma swears by what she calls refined simplicity. “I default to beautifully cut silhouettes in a neutral palette, tailored blazers, trousers, a fluid dress, or a sharp co-ord set, anchored by one strong element. It is never about playing it safe but about elevating a simple, easy look. When you look intentional, you rarely look out of place.”

A clean hem, sharp shoulders, trousers that fall just right, these details register subconsciously. Sharma believes polish comes down to precision. “Fit, fabric, and finish are everything. Effort shows up in how something sits on the body, how the fabric moves, and how complete the ensemble feels. You do not need drama, just a clear vision.”

For Alayna Zaid, founder of luxury contemporary label Siorai, versatility is built into the garment itself. “When you don’t know what to reach for in your closet, that’s when essentials win. Women instinctively go back to everyday staples that feel polished but unfussy. Think well-cut tailored trousers, a crisp white shirt, fluid midi dresses and sharp blazers. Neutrals like ivory, ink, chocolate, and charcoal always feel right, and subtle detailing keeps the look from feeling basic.” 

The switch-up strategy

If elevated basics are the foundation, accessories are the mood shift. Creator Anushka Hazra swears by a fail-safe combination. “My go-to formula is high-waisted straight-leg jeans paired with a fitted tank top. It’s simple, flattering and works for almost anything. If I want to dress it up a bit, I add an oversized jacket, sometimes matching the jeans for a monochrome moment.”

“Changing footwear instantly shifts the mood. Flats to heels, sneakers to pointed mules. Swapping a tote for a structured mini bag can completely recalibrate an outfit without starting from scratch,” she says. Statement earrings, a sculptural cuff or a sharp belt can turn a casual base into something evening-ready in seconds.

Sharma agrees. “Accessories and shoes are your control panel. You can take a very plain outfit and shift its mood entirely with footwear, a bag, or jewellery. When in doubt, I keep the clothes pared back and let the finishing pieces quietly elevate the look.”

The effort is in the edit

Ambiguous dress codes often lead to one common mistake. Overcompensating. “When people feel unsure, they either go too safe or too theatrical,” Sharma notes. “The smarter alternative is to stay rooted in what you do well and refine it.”

For Hazra, effortlessness is about editing rather than adding. “I ask myself, does this look like I chose it, or like I just grabbed it? The difference is in details like ironed fabric, intentional layering and balanced proportions.” A neat hem, a tailored blazer, polished hair, or a defined shoe can subtly sharpen even the simplest combination.

Zaid designs with this fluidity in mind. “I think about whether a garment can sit at a 10 am meeting and still feel relevant at an 8 pm dinner. Clean lines, breathable fabrics and thoughtful construction allow a piece to adapt. Today’s wearer does not want separate wardrobes for separate occasions. She wants pieces that respond to her calendar.” Comfort and elegance are no longer opposing ideas. They coexist.

Ultimately, dressing without a dress code is less about decoding a room and more about understanding yourself. Choose strong foundations, rely on strategic switch-ups and edit with intention. When you show up looking considered, you are never underdressed.

Lead image: Getty 

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