Michael Kors reveals the secrets behind his everlasting design philosophy

Having grown up with a mother who modelled, a grandfather in textiles, and a fashion-forward grandmother, it should come as no surprise that Michael Kors journeyed into fashion. Even so, the story of how Kors created his own line and built an empire that continues to set the rules of modern luxury is a compelling one. Kors’ journey from a basement entrepreneur to a global fashion magnate is a testament to the power of clear and consistent vision. What it also underscores is that the man knows how to listen—to his calling, to his customers, and to the times. We sit down with him to get to the details of it all.

Harper’s Bazaar: You’ve often said that your exposure to the fashion industry through your mother’s modelling career influenced your own trajectory. How did it shape your design philosophy and creative vision?

Michael Kors: My mom was a model, and I fell in love with New York City when she would let me tag along for her shoots and castings. My mother was sort of the sporty all-American girl. She was all about solid colours and clean lines. My grandmother, on the other hand, was the complete opposite. She loved prints and jewels and pieces that were a little over-the-top. And that balance of sporty and glamorous is at the heart of my brand.

HB: You started designing and selling clothes from your parents’ basement as a teenager. How did those early experiences influence your approach to fashion design and business?

MK: When I was 11 years old, I opened a shop in my basement where I made candles, whipstitch leather bags, and hammered copper bracelets. I sold out in a week and never reopened! Then, when I was in high school, I had a friend whose father owned a jeans company, and he told me to see him if I ever had any ideas. So I brought him some denim sketches and he bought two of them. I couldn’t believe it! I think those early successes gave me the confidence I needed to believe in myself and eventually leave college to start my own line. Back then, that was unusual. Most people worked for another designer before branching out. Fashion was still more of an insider’s club when I started.

HB: How do you balance maintaining the brand’s core identity while still innovating and adapting?

MK: One of the biggest challenges for any designer is staying consistent enough that your customers come to trust you while still surprising and delighting them each season. I think that starts with having a clear vision and listening to your customers to learn what it is they need to keep up with life today. You have to know how to stay true to yourself, but adapt to the times.

HB: How do you create timeless pieces that resonate with current styles, especially when people are so influenced by fleeting trends?

MK: It’s about evolution, not revolution. What makes something timeless is an idea I’ve spent a lot of time exploring in my last few collections. And I think the pieces that people feel familiar with—a trench coat, a black dress, an amazing sweater—are always going to be what they reach for day in and day out, season after season. It’s my job as a designer to take those pieces and give them a touch of modernity that makes people feel right and powerful for life today, whether that’s a fabric, a print, or a hint of hardware.

HB: Gen Z has different values and fashion preferences compared to the previous generations. How is Michael Kors responding to that?

MK: Today’s generation is more curious than any before them and they’re not willing to settle. They’re looking for a deeper connection with the brands they choose to shop and wear, and we’re working to meet them where they are and create an authentic dialogue. My brand has never really been about just one type of person.

HB: Tell us about a moment that had a significant impact on your professional journey.

MK: I would say my biggest break in the industry was having Dawn Mello, the fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, walk into the store I was working at (when I first moved to the city) to ask about the clothes in the windows. When I told her that I had designed them, she encouraged me to start thinking about my own collection. That night I went home and started sketching my own collection, and the rest is history.

HB: What advice would you give to those aiming to create a compelling and enduring brand identity?

MK: I think the biggest things are to stay true to your beliefs, listen to what your customers want, and create something that feels fresh each season. The fashion world just keeps evolving faster and learning to adapt to that is what makes you successful.

HB: The theme for your S/S’25 show was ‘Mediterranean Romance’. How did it influence the aesthetic of the collection?

MK: I wanted this collection to have a feeling of something that was romantic, but still very sophisticated. Not sweet at all. In fact, it had a bit of a moody, romantic attitude. Definitely Mediterranean in spirit. And I also wanted to celebrate the beautiful textures that you see when you’re in the Mediterranean.

HB: How has your partnership with Italian artisans shaped this collection?

MK: Working with Italian craftspeople and tailors all of these years has really allowed me the freedom to explore my creativity—to try anything and see it come to life beautifully. As a designer, your greatest dream is that anything you think of is suddenly possible. This collection puts a spotlight on all the incredible tailoring and handwork that our artisans do. From hand-cut leather paillettes to handwoven bags and exquisite tailoring, every piece has the feeling of something that is special, handmade, and unique.

HB: Any key favourite look from the show?

MK: There’s sort of a dichotomy throughout this season between the rustic and the opulent. I love the idea of rustic opulence because these are the special pieces that you can add to your wardrobe and wear every day. They are not just for special occasions; this is everyday opulence.

 

Images: Courtesy of Michael Kors

Also read: Aquazurria founder Edgardo Osorio on creating shoes that blend beauty with comfort

Also read: Designer Mohanjeet Grewal her journey from bohemian chic to fashion icon in Paris