Matteo Tamburini on crafting timeless elegance at Tod’s

Growing up in Pesaro, in the Marche region of Italy, the traditions of Italian craftsmanship had a profound impact on Matteo Tamburini, the creative director of Tod’s. His family’s theatrical costume atelier, where each garment told a story and craftsmanship was paramount, shaped his approach to design. “I’m drawn to creating pieces that not only look beautiful but also carry a sense of history, artistry, and emotional resonance,” he shares. Working at Tod’s feels like a natural extension of that philosophy for him, where quality and craftsmanship are at the heart of everything.

Having worked with legacy fashion brands including Rochas, Emilio Pucci, Bottega Veneta, and Schiaparelli, Tamburini is all set to make his inherent Italian sensibilities work for Tod’s. He takes us through his contemporary vision for the brand, debut F/W collection 2024-25 for women, and more.

Harper’s Bazaar: What has your journey in fashion taught you about shaping a brand’s identity? How does it all come together at Tod’s?

Matteo Tamburini: I had a fantastic school in very different realities which helped me being very flexible in shaping a brand’s identity. Now, becoming the creative director doesn’t only mean designing a collection, above all it’s about working on the storytelling bit, thinking of a universe through which we communicate the collection. With Tod’s, it has been pretty much natural. I have always felt close with it as we have the same goals: My dream is to be able to see people on the streets wearing my clothes, which is exactly what Tod’s DNA is about—understated luxury, high quality, and timeless elegance.

HB: Take us through the vision and inspiration behind your debut womenswear RTW and accessories collection? 

MT: Our primary objective was to distill the essence of what Tod’s has always represented. The design process became a journey of subtraction rather than addition—stripping things back to their core, allowing the brand’s inherent elegance and craftsmanship to shine through with clarity and focus. As a pragmatist, I aimed to give the collection a clear sense of purpose, drawing inspiration from Milan and the duality that defines the city. We wanted to translate an idea of dynamism and urban sophistication into the collection, influenced by the formal and bourgeois approach to dressing that permeates the streets of Milan. It became a declaration of intent, setting the tone for what is to come, honouring the artisanal quality that defines the brand while introducing a contemporary edge that makes it relevant in today’s world.

HB: Tod’s is synonymous with ‘quiet luxury’. How do you plan to maintain the brand ethos while also injecting your own creative flair into future collections?

MT: While I deeply respect the values that Tod’s represents, especially the emphasis on timelessness and exceptional craftsmanship, I don’t particularly resonate with the term ‘quiet luxury’. For me, it’s more about authentic luxury—one that speaks through its quality, attention to detail, and a deep respect for tradition. My approach is to maintain these core values while pushing the boundaries of desirability. I aim to inject a sense of fluidity and sculptural elegance into the collections, creating pieces that not only stand the test of time but also evoke emotion and desire.

HB: How do you envision Tod’s evolution under your creative leadership?

MT: I think being the creative director for both women’s and men’s collection can help the team, the brand, and myself having a common language, shared values, and consistency. Keeping in mind these milestones, the evolution will be natural as it should be. My idea is to not drastically change the brand, but more to keep it loyal to its true values and DNA by adding contemporary touches.

HB: How do you wish to integrate modern design elements with the brand’s deep-rooted artisanal heritage?

MT: Craftsmanship is at the very core of everything we do at Tod’s, and it’s something I hold in the highest regard. When I approach integrating modern design elements, I start by respecting the artisanal heritage and the incredible skills that have been passed down through generations. My goal is to preserve that tradition while introducing subtle innovations—whether it’s through new silhouettes, materials, or techniques that complement the craftsmanship rather than overshadow it.

HB: Is there anything unexpected that has influenced your creative process at Tod’s?

MT: What surprised me the most about working at Tod’s is the depth of collaboration across the various teams, from artisans to product developers. The level of precision and the commitment to quality at every stage of the process is truly inspiring. This has had a profound impact on my creative process—knowing that I have such skilled craftsmanship at my disposal allows me to push boundaries, while still maintaining the integrity of each piece.

HB: What’s next for Tod’s?

MT: Looking ahead, I want to continue evolving Tod’s while staying true to its essence of craftsmanship and authenticity. The goal is to create collections that feel modern and relevant, yet timeless in their appeal. I design with the intention of creating pieces that move with the body and bring a sense of ease and sensuality, allowing the wearer to feel comfortable yet distinctive in every moment. 

Lead image: Courtesy the brand

This article orignally appeared in the December 2024 print issue of Harper's Bazaar India

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