How Indian brands are making shapewear more inclusive

“I look so fat,” I groaned while wearing a pair of tight, high-waisted pants. I immediately rushed to pick up Spanx’s High-waisted Mid-Thigh collection, which is available in various ‘skin’ colours, and suddenly, all my problems seemed to be under control right away. Indeed, this body shaper doesn’t hold as tight as a corset, but it forms the curves of my waist and stomach in a more balanced manner, without feeling tortured. Back in the ’90s and early 2000s, when the ‘heroin chic’ aesthetic triumphed alongside the appearance of size-zero models, fashion ended up becoming an unrealistic standard for women. It also influenced what we know about the shapewear regime until now. The underwear is designed with a stretchy material, which is so strong that it sucks the body in. The illusion that you’re left with is such that one appears two sizes smaller, instantly resulting in a smooth and cinched figure.

The earliest record of shapewear goes back to ancient Greece, where they created stomach fasteners using stiff materials such as metal or leather. But, it was only during the Renaissance that the corsets came into prominence, thanks to the queen of France, Catherine de Medici (reign from 1547-1559), who introduced the concept originally meant for orthopedic support. However, during Queen Elizabeth I’s reign (from 1558-1603), the corset was not used for creating an hourglass figure; rather, it was used to mould the torso into a cylindrical shape, flatten it, and raise the bustline. This very trend backfired during the Victorian era, when women of all ages and classes were wearing corsets to achieve an hourglass figure. They also wore corsets while performing physical activities such as cycling, but as the shapewear continued to evolve, so did the clothing industry—and it increasingly became ‘free’ and ‘natural’. Thus, encouraging innovation to support the body.

Around 1958, the synthetic elastic fibre Lycra was discovered by a team of scientists, and they revolutionised corset design through its rubber feature that offered more flexibility to the wearer. Decades have passed since then, and the progress of fashion engineering and global social change continues to provide friendlier solutions for shapewear designs. Interestingly, in 2019, celebrity Kim Kardashian popularised shapewear beyond its basic function by launching SKIMS. Remember the all-black Balenciaga creation without her face at the Met Gala in 2021? The secret to this perfect look is the legging from her line, which is increasingly trying to steer the culture of shapewear towards body-positivity and inclusivity. The brand features fashion-conscious shapewear ranging from XXS to 5XL in various colours, and innovative fabrics which offer a unique fit. In India, brands like Butt-Chique and NYKD by Nykaa (both launched in 2020) offer products that are inclusive with their range of sizes and colours, while being functional and comfortable. Both these brands store shapewear for saris (which act as a great petticoat) and other styles, in thin fabrics, available in sizes up to 5XL. These brands echo the idea of acceptance, representation, and individual choice at their core.

Meanwhile, singer Lizzo is taking a step further in celebrating the female form with her new line called Yitty. A similar vision is echoed by Victoria Beckham’s VB Body. And fashion runways are increasingly tilting towards re-fashioning corsets. It is no longer uncommon for shapewears to appear as part of people’s wardrobe. Corsets, which were originally worn as an undergarment, were seen in action during the ’70s as an outer garment—this phenomenon was then worked on by couturier Jean Paul Gaultier, and later popularised by Madonna when she adorned the iconic cone bra during her Blond Ambition tour. And now, shapewear has emerged as a ‘weapon’ of sorts, breaking the narrow stereotype about corsets...a symbol of ownership, power, and sensuality. Confidence is beauty, after all.