From Rome to Mumbai—Bulgari brings its Serpenti Infinito exhibition to NMACC

Bulgari’s Serpenti has always been a story of reinvention, elegance, and fearless craftsmanship. In India, the serpent comes with its own rich narrative—the nāga, a symbol of strength, protection, and renewal that runs through mythology, art, and tradition. Which is why it makes perfect sense that the Roman Maison chose to bring its Serpenti Infinito exhibition here, following the success of Shanghai and Seoul, creating a dialogue between Bulgari’s Roman heritage and India’s vibrant artistic spirit.

Taking place from 2 to 17 October, the exhibition will be presented at Art House, Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre in BKC, Mumbai, featuring over 75 works by 23 Indian and international artists. Curated by Nature Morte, one of India’s leading galleries founded by Peter Nagy and Aparajita Jain, and brought to life under the vision of artistic director Sean Anderson, the show fosters a dialogue between history, craftsmanship, and cultural exchange. Alongside historic Bulgari pieces, visitors can explore one-of-a-kind High Jewellery creations and experience Refik Anadol’s immersive, three-dimensional AI-driven installation, set within a 360-degree mirrored room.

We caught up with Laura Burdese, deputy CEO, Bvlgari, at Serpenti Infinito, who spoke about the inspiration behind bringing Serpenti to India, the meaning of desirability in luxury today, and how the serpent continues to represent transformation and legacy.

Harper's Bazaar: Can you tell me a little bit about this exhibition? What made you choose India?

Laura Burdese: We have been dreaming about doing something in India for a very long time. The brand—and Lucia specifically—has a long-standing love story with this country. India has always been a great source of inspiration for us, culturally and artistically, not to mention its incredible natural gems. So when we thought about bringing the Serpenti exhibition somewhere in the world, India felt like the perfect place to conclude this magnificent tour.

We started with the idea of bringing Serpenti here. The serpent is a universal cultural symbol, and perhaps more so in India, where it has ancient, deep symbolism. It represents renewal, protection, wisdom, health, and power—much like in Roman culture, which is interesting considering how far apart these two countries are.

Creating this exhibition is about building a cultural bridge—a space for dialogue between Serpenti, Bulgari’s values, and Indian art and culture. It’s about creating something new through this beautiful merging of two cultures, connecting and crafting beauty together.

HB: You’ve already touched on the Serpentine motif and its cultural significance. India has its own myths around the snake, like the nāga. Why now? Why is this the right time to do this collaboration in India?

LB: Bulgari and the serpent have been synonymous for nearly 80 years, so it was a long-held dream to create a major cultural exhibition around this iconic symbol. The timing was ideal—it’s the Chinese Year of the Snake, giving us the perfect global moment to celebrate.

With a strong concept, the right partner, and an incredible team, everything aligned seamlessly. The Ambani family instantly connected with the project and generously offered this stunning artistic space.

When we met Sean and the curator, the vision came together organically. Our conversations were rooted in shared values—an open cultural dialogue expressed through craftsmanship, beauty, and art. That’s how this exhibition came to life.

HB: You oversee the brand’s key businesses—jewellery, watches, fragrances, and accessories. What have you loved most, and what have been the challenges?

LB: Honestly, I’ve loved every single moment. Bulgari is such a magnificent brand with incredible depth and richness. I even enjoy the most difficult challenges.

In my role, I focus on driving what we call the “one brand delegation” strategy. That means putting all categories—jewellery, watches, accessories, eyewear, fragrances—under one cohesive umbrella. For the client, this is the Bulgari universe. We aim to deliver our brand’s value in a unique, coherent, and experiential way.

It’s both exciting and challenging because the categories are so different. Maintaining integrity, vision, and focus while making people dream and experience the Bulgari universe is, for me, the most exciting job on earth.

HB: You mentioned value. Let’s talk about desirability, a huge concept in luxury today. What does desirability look like in 2025? Is it about rarity, intimacy, or something else?

LB: Today, desirability isn’t about owning something. It’s about feeling an emotion, living a memorable experience. It’s about intimacy—something that elevates life and lifts the soul. I’ve always loved the etymology of “desirability” in Latin: desidera esse, meaning “being far from the stars.” Humans have always desired the stars because they are distant, symbolic of what we seek. Desirability, for me, is deeply personal—it’s about what reconnects you to what you aspire to.

For Bulgari, desirability is something that touches the heart, elevates life through craftsmanship, beauty, and enduring values. It transcends space and time.

HB: Fashion and jewellery often draw inspiration from art, architecture, and cinema. What’s the most unlikely source of inspiration you’ve found at Bulgari?

LB: We draw inspiration from everything and everywhere. For example, the Bvlgari parentisi motif comes from floors in Rome. When I say Lucia draws inspiration from every corner, it’s not about borrowing; it’s about having a heart, mind, and eyes that are open to diversity, different cultures, artistic expressions, and people.

Then we reinterpret these inspirations through Bulgari’s lens: colour, craftsmanship, and artistry. Inspiration can come from the pavements of ancient Rome or the little details Lucia noticed here in India. Anything can inspire you if you keep your eyes and heart wide open.

HB: The Serpenti has been worn by style icons across generations—from Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya. Who comes to mind as the ideal representative from India?

LB: Priyanka (Chopra). She’s loved Bulgari long before becoming an ambassador seven or eight years ago. She shares our values—she’s warm-hearted, open, daring, and unapologetic. She embraces her roots and her life in America with authenticity, showing her strengths and vulnerabilities.

We love her not just because she’s beautiful and Indian, but because she embodies the exceptional Bvlgari woman: talented, warm-hearted, open, and generous with her gifts.

HB: Would there be any historical figure you consider the ideal Bvlgari woman, like Cleopatra?

LB: You stole my Cleopatra—she’s so Bulgari. The brand has always celebrated exceptional women. Exceptional doesn’t mean famous—it means women who fight to express themselves, live honourably, and embrace freedom.

For me, every day, women who fight for their children, careers, or personal expression are the real Bulgari Serpenti. They are the true inspiration, alongside figures like Cleopatra and Priyanka.

HB: As one of the few global women leaders in luxury, how responsible do you feel for representation? How do you measure success?

LB: I feel deeply responsible. When I started over 30 years ago, things were even harder. Women must fight so that the future is easier for the next generation. I strive every day to make the world a better place and to have a positive impact on the people around me.

Success, for me, is measured by impact—helping others grow, lift their potential, and express themselves. Of course, business metrics matter, but personal success is about the difference you make in people’s lives.

HB: Globally, there’s scepticism about luxury—young people questioning its relevance. How do you see this, and how can a brand ensure legacy?

LB: We are in a moment where luxury is reassessing itself—exposure, relatability, exclusivity, or pricing. But people always need beauty; they need experiences that elevate their lives.

Luxury is about making people dream, giving them emotion, not just selling products. Creativity, innovation, and uniqueness are key.

Legacy is crucial. Heritage provides the foundation, but being a heritage brand, like Bulgari, means using legacy as a springboard, continuously evolving while staying rooted. The serpent symbolises this ongoing transformation—keeping legacy alive, relevant, and meaningful for generations to come.

All images: Bulgari 

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