Beyond GAP: Iconic fashion ad campaigns that changed the game

In an era dominated by algorithms and influencer content, one might ask whether fashion campaigns still carry weight. The answer is yes—but they must be bolder, smarter, and more culturally attuned than ever.

Enter: Gap X Katseye. When Gap unveiled its recent campaign with Katseye—a bold blend of street culture, 2000’s nostalgia, and global pop—it reminded us of the enduring power of fashion campaigns to capture more than just clothing. The campaign resurrects iconic Y2K trends, set to Kelis’s anthem Milkshake for a high-energy nod to the era, and showcases everything from bralettes and mini skirts to baggy jeans—letting each member’s style shine. 

But the timing of the advert was what really sealed the deal. Amidst backlash of a recent controversial American Eagle denim ad featuring Sydney Sweeney, fans praised Gap and Katseye for a playful but powerful denim statement, showcasing not just the wearability and movement of the jeans, but also celebrating the personal style and global outlook that each of the girls brings to the table.  

But Gap is hardly the first brand to redefine fashion advertising.

Over the decades, certain campaigns have transcended their initial purpose to become touchstones of fashion history. Here, we revisit some of the most iconic:

Nicole Kidman for Chanel No.5 (2004)

We can’t talk about fashion campaigns without highlighting the most expensive one ever made. In 2004, Chanel spent circa $33m on an 180-second cinematic advertisement, in hopes of repositioning Chanel No.5 in the luxury perfume market. It featured Nicole Kidman and was directed by Baz Luhrmann, both still riding the waves of Moulin Rouge’s success at the time, and blurred the line between big-budget film and advertising forever. It framed Kidman in a pink silk gown (that she re-wore for the 2023 Met Gala), fleeing paparazzi into the arms of a writer, and it became a visual shorthand for Chanel’s allure: romantic, extravagant, and eternal. It set a new standard for luxury fragrance campaigns, proving they could be as epic as a Hollywood production.

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s radical vision of a single colour palette – the now-famous Valentino Pink – wasn’t just a fashion statement; it was a visual revolution that catapulted hot pink into mainstream haute couture. Featuring Zendaya and Lewis Hamilton, this campaign drenched everything in shocking fuchsia – from the models to the set design, it redefined how a brand can claim ownership of a colour, creating instant recognition and a viral moment across digital platforms.

Versace S/S 1995 with Madonna

After years of Gianni Versace trying to bring her on board, Madonna agreed to star in a Versace campaign in late 1994. Shot by Steven Maisel, in sleek, minimal black-and-white, this advert with Madonna embodied the unapologetic glamour of the ’90s. It notably rebranded Madonna from provocateur to high-fashion icon while positioning Versace as a maison of great influence, sensuality, and celebrity synergy.

Jacquemus “La Bomba” (2018)

Set against sweeping fields of lavender in Provence, the “La Bomba” campaign catapulted Jacquemus from cult favorite to household name. Its oversized straw hats and sun-drenched minimalism captured the imagination of a generation craving escapism. The campaign’s imagery became an instant cult classic amongst Gen-Z, foreshadowing the future synergy between fashion and social media virality.

Chanel Mother’s Day Campaign (2021)

Endearing, yet all the more striking – Chanel’s Mother’s Day campaign in 2021 was a softer touch from the house of Chanel. Far from the spectacle of its No.5 epic, this campaign highlighted the tenderness in maternal intimacy, demonstrating fashion’s ability to celebrate emotion, not just glamour, proving that luxury can speak to sentiment and the quiet beauty of everyday gestures. It reflected fashion’s pivot to emotional storytelling in a pandemic-altered world.

Gucci by Tom Ford (1996)

Before Tom Ford, Gucci wasn’t thriving as it is now. With a campaign steeped in provocation, think: slick hair, unbuttoned silk shirts, and hedonistic sensuality – Ford was able to rebrand Gucci into the epitome of sensuality. Sleek and unapologetic glamour took the wheel in this campaign, and defined Ford’s Gucci to be provocative and confident, setting a tone that would dominate late ‘90s fashion. The campaign’s imagery defined an era and saved the fashion house, proving that good advertising could indeed resurrect an entire brand.

Fenty Beauty “Beauty for All” (2017)

Today, nearly every major brand cites Fenty’s debut campaign as a turning point in inclusivity and diversity. Rihanna’s debut beauty campaign highlighted the 40 shades of foundation in its first release, rewriting the rules of beauty advertising and creating a new benchmark for representation. The campaign was both a commercial and cultural phenomenon, bringing the dialogue on diversity to the fore.

Dior “J’adore” Campaign (2011)

Few campaigns have achieved the pure golden iconography of Dior’s J’adore. Charlize Theron, shimmering in liquid gold and striding through the gilded halls of Versailles, embodied the perfume’s message of unapologetic femininity and power. It wasn’t just an ad campaign, it was the essence of Dior distilled into a single, unforgettable image.

Kate Moss’ Calvin Klein Campaign (1994)

Minimalist, bold, and albeit controversial – no one defined 90’s jeans the way Kate Moss and Calvin Klein did. With little-to-no glam, laidback styling, and black and white photo shoots, Calvin Klein was able to pioneer a new kind of intimacy in fashion imagery, making the muses that don their apparel appear to be casual yet undeniably provocative – a marketing style which the company uses to this day.In fashion, advertising is never just about selling a product – it’s about storytelling, identity, and creating a cultural moment. Over the years, these campaigns have transcended billboards and glossy magazine pages to become defining statements of style and society.

Lead image: GAP / Youtube

This article originally appeared on Harper'sBazaarArabia.com

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