Inside Schiaparelli’s extraordinary V&A fashion exhibition

As a stylist and designer, a fascination with fashion that goes beyond the expected comes naturally. The pieces that stay with us aren't always the easiest to wear, but the ones that make us pause, look closer, and wonder how someone could have imagined something so extraordinary in the first place.

That sense of wonder is at the heart of Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, a captivating exhibition currently on in London, celebrating one of fashion’s most imaginative houses. Tracing the journey from founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s radical vision to the contemporary creations of creative director Daniel Roseberry, it explores a world where fashion refuses to follow convention and instead embraces art, experimentation, and extraordinary craftsmanship.

Here, clothing becomes a canvas for artistic expression. Sculptural silhouettes, unexpected proportions, intricate embellishments, and surrealist details transform familiar garments into something altogether extraordinary.

What captivated me most was the sheer three-dimensionality of the pieces. These were not garments that relied on prints or surface decoration alone. They had depth, volume, and structure, with fabric manipulated into sculptural forms that seemed almost to exist independently of the body.

One particularly striking black dress, adorned with dramatic pink flowers across the shoulders, beautifully captured this spirit. The oversized floral forms created a striking contrast against the dark fabric, turning the shoulders into a sculptural statement. Bold, romantic, and theatrical, the piece demonstrated how an unexpected design detail can transform an entire silhouette.

Elsewhere, a sculptural pink jacket with flower-like detailing demonstrated how fabric could be shaped into almost architectural forms. Intricate pleating, exaggerated contours, and three-dimensional embellishments gave the garments a sense of movement and personality. Corseted silhouettes brought structure and definition, while richly embroidered jackets combined metallic details, elaborate motifs, and contrasting textures to create extraordinary visual depth.

I was equally drawn to the ornate buttons, which often felt like miniature works of art in their own right. In a collection where every element matters, even a button becomes an opportunity for creativity. The interplay of rich fabrics, elaborate embroidery, sculptural appliqués, and carefully considered finishing revealed just how much craftsmanship lies behind the spectacle.

Some pieces featured celestial-inspired motifs, with stars and intricate gold detailing lending them an almost otherworldly quality. Others played with dramatic ivory silhouettes, corsetry, and exaggerated proportions, transforming traditional shapes into something surreal. Every turn revealed another detail: a textured surface, an unexpected construction technique, or an embellishment that invited a closer look.

The exhibition also celebrates Elsa Schiaparelli’s extraordinary relationship with art, particularly her collaborations with surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. Iconic creations such as the 'Skeleton Dress' and 'Tears Dress' demonstrate how fashion can communicate an idea, provoke a reaction and challenge the boundaries between clothing and art. The lobster motif, with its playful irreverence, remains another reminder of the house’s distinctive approach.

What's most admirable is the courage behind this creative vision. It takes a certain confidence to move beyond conventional ideas of beauty and create something genuinely memorable. Yet extravagance alone is never enough. The most compelling pieces are supported by exceptional technical skill, from the precision of their construction to the painstaking embroidery and intricate fabric manipulation.

After years of working in fashion and styling, these creations can be viewed through two lenses. There is the immediate excitement of seeing something unexpected, followed by a professional curiosity: how was it made, what inspired it, and how does every detail contribute to the overall look?

Schiaparelli reminds us that dressing need not always be about restraint or convention. Sometimes, clothing can give a person presence before they have even spoken. And while haute couture may not always translate into everyday dressing, its freedom to experiment with form, texture, and proportion is precisely what makes it so influential.

The exhibition is a reminder of the importance of looking beyond the familiar. In a world where fashion images are consumed in seconds, these creations reward the time spent observing them. They invite an appreciation not just of the finished garment, but of the imagination, skill and patience that bring it to life.

For anyone visiting London before 15 November 2026, Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art at the V&A Museum is an exhibition worth making time for.

Because the most extraordinary fashion does more than dress the body. It challenges convention, tells a story, and reminds us that imagination, when combined with exceptional craftsmanship, can turn a garment into a work of art.

Images: The brand

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