What is hair oiling? Everything to know about the centuries-old Ayurvedic practice

I’ve been told I have a great head of hair since I was a kid, and my mother is to thank for it. My mom, of course, passed down her genes, but she also introduced me to the tradition of hair oiling. She added a little to my hair every weekend for years, and the practice is still one of my most sacred beauty rituals.

“Hair oiling is an ancient Ayurvedic ritual that has been passed down by generations, for over 5,000 years,” Squigs Beauty founder Nikita Charuza tells Bazaar. Even so, it’s only recently hit the mainstream. In recent years, it has even gained traction on social media. Plus, a growing number of South Asian–founded beauty brands have released their own oils, which has also helped place the time-honoured ritual in the spotlight.

Not only does hair oiling keep my hair in its healthiest state, but the practice can also help soothe migraines and generally relieve stress. It’s also my favourite form of self-care for moments when I simply want to pamper myself. Most importantly, though, it helps keep me feeling bonded to my Indian heritage.

Interested in trying the process out yourself? Keep reading to learn more about the benefits of hair oiling, along with expert-approved tips and products worth adding to your beauty rotation.

What Are the Benefits of Hair Oiling?

According to Charuza and dermatologist Mona Mislankar, adding oil to the hair and scalp helps reduce frizz, boost shine and softness, and reverse breakage over time. Plus, the act of massaging the scalp can also stimulate circulation, which encourages growth from hair follicles.

“Applying oil before washing or swimming can form a protective barrier, reducing damage from harsh shampoos, chlorine, or salt water,” says Mislankar. She notes that coconut oil, in particular, can decrease hygral fatigue—or swelling of the hair when wet—and help increase the hair’s tensile strength to prevent damage.

Plus, some oil products are optimised for styling purposes too. I love to use a few drops of Squigs’s Gooseberry Delight hair oil on days when I’m sporting a slicked-back look. It’s a much gentler and more nourishing option than wax sticks or hairspray.

What Type of Oil Should I Use?

For maximum moisture benefits, Mislankar recommends looking for formulas with ingredients like coconut, argan, and jojoba oils. Dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali also recommends options infused with almond oil, which often feature scalp-nourishing vitamin E and fatty acids. Additionally, research suggests that amla, a popular Ayurvedic ingredient, may also help minimise hair loss and boost growth.

“You can expect to notice new baby hair within four weeks of using our Gooseberry Delight hair oil because it’s packed with clinically proven ingredients like amla, kalonji, coconut, and castor oils,” adds Charuza. Fable and Mane’s HoliRoots Pre-wash Oil combines amla with ashwagandha, an ingredient previously linked to an improvement in hair density with a reduction in shedding. Additionally, Aavrani’s Hair and Scalp Recovery Pre-Wash Oil contains both amla and rosemary oil, another popular ingredient that’s used to stimulate the hair follicle and increase blood flow.

Other common Ayurvedic ingredients like neem, tulsi (or holy basil), and brahmi extracts, plus jasmine and sunflower oils, have also been studied for encouraging thicker, stronger hair while being soothing for the scalp.

The Cultural Significance of Hair Oiling

For me, Charuza, Mislankar, and others, the beauty tradition serves as a way for us to stay connected to our cultures over time. “My mom has hair that goes past her waist, and every time we’d go to school, everyone would want to know her secrets for having such long, luscious hair, so we’d have friends over and show them how to create our hair oil,” shares Charuza. “Our hair oil is actually a recipe from my great-grandmother, Aai, which I then modernised and made easier to wash out.”

Hair oiling is rooted in time-honoured South Asian recipes and massage techniques that have been passed down in families for generations. “Growing up in a South Asian household, hair oiling was a regular part of the routine,” says Mislankar. “I remember my mom oiling my hair weekly, including a massage, and placing it in a braid. I distinctly remember the strong smell of the Indian formulations of coconut oil. Now, although I don’t necessarily do it the same way, using coconut oil on my ends still provides excellent benefits and also brings back many of those memories and traditions of prioritising self-care and healthy hair.”

Are There Any Downsides to Hair Oiling?

While hair oiling is generally considered suitable for all hair types and textures, Bhanusali advises those with skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis to avoid the practice altogether. “Some people mistakenly diagnose themselves with dry scalp instead of seborrheic dermatitis, which can cause inflammation and scales,” the expert says. Mislankar agrees, adding that “oil theoretically can provide a moist feeding ground for yeast and exacerbate inflammation, flaking, and itching.” The professional adds that choosing the right oil for your scalp type and applying it with moderation are key in preventing clogged pores or exacerbating other scalp conditions.

Additionally, those with sensitive skin should be especially mindful of a product’s ingredients list. “Some hair oils claim to be safe for sensitive skin but actually include scalp-irritating ingredients like synthetic fragrances and dyes,” explains Charuza. Before hair oiling, it’s always best to consult your dermatologist to see if the practice is suitable for you.

If you do have scalp concerns but still want to try oiling, Bhanusali recommends applying the product exclusively to the ends of your hair once or twice a month. He also suggests applying hair oil for 10 minutes before showering, then cleansing it thoroughly with shampoo.

How to Apply Hair Oil

For a supremely soothing experience, I suggest warming up your hair oil of choice before applying it. You’ll quickly feel any tension melt away once you begin your next-level scalp massage. When DIY-ing my own oil blend, I place it in a glass bowl on my stove on low heat. Otherwise, I’ll pop one of my go-to bottles into a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. Another tip? Try steaming your hair before, during, or after oil application.

While your fingers are a great option, using a scalp massager when applying hair oil can maximise your relaxation benefits. I’m personally a fan of Mount Lai’s Vitality Qi Advanced Scalp Massager, which uses a combination of white jade massagers, gentle vibrations, red light, and heat therapy to help boost circulation. Squigs’s Squiggly Neem Comb is another expert-approved option for distributing hair oil through your scalp and length. “It’s created by artisans in India with 100 percent pure neem, which is an incredible Ayurvedic wood that helps stimulate and detoxify your scalp and promote new hair growth,” adds Charuza.

Most oils are applied before hair washing and left on overnight. But with the beauty industry’s advanced formulas, it’s easy to reap similar hair-care benefits with treatment windows as short as 30 minutes before your next shower. But if you do decide to leave your hair-oil treatment in overnight, Charuza suggests wearing a protective style or sleeping in a silk scrunchie to help minimise friction as you snooze.

Lead Image: Design by Sarah Olivieri

This article originally appeared on Harper'sBazaar.com

 

Also Read: Get these haircare basics right to avoid ruining your hair this monsoon

Also Read: How did the ancient practice of Ayurveda became a part of modern skincare?