Exosomes are poised to be the future of aesthetics, but what’s the hype all about?

“It changed my skin and my life.” “I’m on my third bottle, and I can’t imagine using anything else.” These are just some of the rave reviews I came across on Medicube’s website for their viral product, the Zero  Exosome Shot. Hailed as the beauty industry’s latest breakthrough, exosomes are making the leap from  dermatologists’ clinics to our everyday skincare routines. And the hype isn’t just talk—the global market for exosome skincare was valued at $256 million in 2023 and is projected to skyrocket to $647 million within the next six years. Clearly, this isn’t just a fleeting trend. Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director  at Yavana Aesthetics, firmly believes that exosomes are next-generation molecules poised to revolutionise 
skincare. “These tiny messengers, naturally found in our body cells, facilitate communication between  cells,” she explains. Inside the body, they transport essential lipids, proteins, and growth factors, directing cells to perform key functions—like boosting collagen production for firmer, healthier skin. Imagine your body as a bustling restaurant on a packed Friday night. Exosomes are the waitstaff, swiftly delivering orders (messages) from the kitchen (one cell) to the tables (other cells), ensuring everything runs seamlessly. “For the skin to thrive, there has to be a regulated relationship between the various cells of its layers,” explains Dr Ipsa Pandya, founder and chief dermatologist at Prime Skin Clinic, Ahmedabad. 

When this delicate balance is disrupted, skin disorders arise. “This is where exosomes come in,” she elaborates. “They work by precisely targeting damaged cells, restoring balance, and offering a powerful solution for various skin concerns.” While most skincare ingredients work only on the surface, exosomes go deeper—merging with skin cells to deliver powerful bioactive signals that trigger deep regeneration and renewal. They accelerate wound healing, boost collagen production, reduce inflammation, and speed up skin repair. “If your main goal is to combat signs of aging, scarring, inflamed skin and hyperpigmentation, exosomes should be your top choice,” says Dr Agarwal.

Both doctors agree that in-clinic exosome therapy is the most powerful way to achieve transformative  results. While they can be sourced from both human stem cells and plant cells, the latter is globally preferred for its lower risk of infection. “If an exosome therapy or product is formulated using human stem cells, it carries a significant risk of transmission of DNA infection,” they warn. This makes selecting exosomes from the right source—ensuring both purity and stability—crucial for safe and effective results.

“For these treatments, we create microchannels in the skin using laser, MNRF, or fractional plasma to  induce controlled trauma,” explains Dr Pandya. “This process enhances absorption, allowing exosomes to 
penetrate deeply, activate the skin’s natural healing mechanisms, and accelerate rejuvenation.” Dr Agarwal typically recommends sessions every three to four weeks for skin treatments and every 15 days for hair. “After four to six sessions, patients have seen a remarkable improvement in skin tone and texture, along with a visible reduction in dullness and pigmentation,” she adds.

Still a fresh frontier in skincare, topical exosome treatments remain limited. However, when paired with in-clinic procedures, their efficacy can exceed expectations. “Topical treatments are more accessible 
and convenient than in-clinic procedures, but they contain a lower concentration of exosomes,” explains 
Dr Pandya. “While they can enhance results, professional treatments deliver a far more transformative 
impact.”

Beyond Medicube’s Zero Exosome Shot, Exobalm by ASCEplus is making waves in the world of skincare. 
Crafted with plant-based exosomes extracted from Damask Rose using patented technology, this formula 
isolates them with 99.9 per cent purity—ensuring superior results. To elevate its healing abilities, these 
purified exosomes are combined with growth factors, peptides, and essential nutrients—boosting cell renewal and strengthening the skin barrier in the process. What truly sets Exobalm apart is its unique powder form, designed to be blended with a base and refrigerated for peak potency.

Meanwhile, Dr Su’s Exosome Plump Party Serum is stealing the spotlight as India’s first-ever exosome 
serum. “We utilised an advanced five-step extraction process to isolate exosomes from Helichrysum  Arenarium, a powerhouse ingredient known for its exceptional restorative properties,” explains Dr Suyomi 
Shah, MD, dermatologist and chief formulator at Dr Su who dedicated five years to rigorous research on 
plant-based exosomes to perfect this innovation. While they are already prized for their deep absorption 
abilities, Dr Su took it a step further—enhancing the formula with a Liposomal Deep Delivery System for 10x targeted penetration, ensuring results at a cellular level.

Exploring exosomes can feel like stepping into a sci-fi breakthrough—but this is the future of beauty. It’s 
no longer about superficial fixes; deep cellular restoration is taking center stage. Exosome science is still in its early days, with stability and biomanufacturing posing key challenges. But as research and clinical 
studies progress, skincare won’t just be about what you apply—it will be a conversation between your cells, unlocking regeneration from within.

Lead image: Getty Images

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