Skincare acids that need a place in your body care routine

When it comes to a skincare routine (read: the face), we’ve studied all the active ingredients with near-clinical precision. We can spot a compromised barrier blindfolded from across the room. And yet, when it comes to the body, a squeeze of body wash and a rushed dab of lotion apparently is enough to keep us glowing and going. But the body goes through pretty much the same skincare rollercoaster the face does—it breaks out, looks dull, flakes away, and even develops pigmentation—so why don’t we extend the same TLC to it? Dermatologists break down the different skincare acids you should add to your routine stat!

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

“Ascorbic acid or vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase—the enzyme responsible for melanin production—which actively prevents new pigmentation from forming and gradually fades existing tan,” explains Dr Manasi Shirolikar, consultant dermatologist and founder, Dr Manasi Skin. Additionally, it helps the body build new collagen, improves skin texture, firmness, and elasticity, especially in areas prone to laxity such as the arms, abdomen, and thighs.

Look for stabilised forms such as L-ascorbic acid or newer derivatives like ethyl ascorbic acid in body serums or lotions. Always layer vitamin C with sunscreen. “For best results on tanned areas, combine with sunscreen during the day and exfoliating acids two to three times a week,” she recommends.

Lactic Acid (AHA - Level Beginner)

“A gentler exfoliant, as well as a hydrating humectant, lactic acid has a larger molecular size and therefore doesn’t penetrate as deeply as its AHA counterparts,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and medical director, Skinfinitii Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic. “It works on the surface and is less irritating.”

Additionally, lactic acid is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture while exfoliating. This, according to Dr Shirolikar, makes it ideal for rough, dry body skin—elbows, knees, heels, and overall texture issues—and gently dissolves the keratin buildup in keratosis pilaris aka chicken skin, smoothing bumps over time. You can even use it to reduce tanning and hyperpigmentation, as it accelerates cell turnover, helping fade dark spots, including those from body acne scars, bug bites, and sun exposure. 

Glycolic Acid (AHA - Level Pro)

Lactic acid’s more potent counterpart, glycolic acid, is a powerhouse ingredient that delivers similar benefits but with greater intensity. “It is more aggressive for stubborn KP as it breaks down the keratin plugs more effectively,” says Dr Shirolikar. “Glycolic acid also works well for macular amyloidosis, a condition that causes dark, rippled patches on the upper back, upper arms, and shins. It helps improve the appearance over time, although it requires consistent, long-term use.” 

According to Dr Sharad, glycolic acid is water-soluble, so it works on the epidermis. Additionally, it is one of the smallest molecules in size and therefore has deeper penetration. 

Glycolic acid is also great for acanthosis nigricans—dark, velvety patches in body folds around the neck, underarms, and groin area—as it exfoliates intensely and helps lighten the areas by removing hyper-pigmented cells and improving cell turnover. “For people with this condition, it’s important to combine topical treatment with addressing the underlying causes (insulin resistance, hormonal issues) for best results.”

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

This oil-soluble BHA penetrates the pores and hair follicles, making it uniquely effective for certain body concerns like ingrown hairs and acne. “It prevents and treats ingrown hairs on areas like the bikini, legs, underarms, and beard area for men,” says Dr Shirolikar. 

She recommends pairing it with AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid for maximum exfoliation—salicylic acid works within the follicle, while AHAs refine the skin’s surface—together delivering comprehensive exfoliation. This pairing is especially effective for body acne, ingrown hairs, and improving overall texture.

Back acne, chest acne, and even “butt-ne” respond particularly well to 2 per cent salicylic acid body washes or sprays, which help keep pores clear and prevent future breakouts. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid also calms existing blemishes while reducing the likelihood of new lesions forming.

Retinoids 

Retinoids like tretinoin (retinoic acid, adapalene, and retinol) help boost cell turnover and collagen production, and are considered to be the gold standard for certain body concerns like stretch marks, ageing, textured skin, and body acne and scarring. “Retinoids are one of the few ingredients with actual evidence for improving stretch marks, especially newer, red or purple ones,” says Dr Shirolikar. 

“They increase cell turnover and collagen production, which can improve the texture and appearance of striae.”  Tretinoin 0.05-0.1 per cent applied nightly to stretch marks for 6+ months shows the best results. Older, white stretch marks respond less well but may still see some improvement.

Like on the face, retinoids smooth texture, boost collagen, and improve crepey, sun-damaged skin on the chest, arms, and hands. They also prevent clogged pores, making them effective for body acne and post-acne marks.

Special Mentions

Kojic Acid

This tyrosinase inhibitor helps fade pigmentation by reducing melanin production and works well for darker, rougher areas like the underarms, elbows, knees, and knuckles. When combined with AHAs, it makes skin look brighter and more even-toned. 

Hyaluronic Acid

This deeply hydrating and plumping ingredient can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it ideal for dry areas like the legs and arms. It supports the skin barrier and enhances the absorption of actives like retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs. HA is also suitable for all skin types.

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)

They are larger molecules that don’t penetrate deep into the skin, and therefore cause minimal irritation, making them an ideal acid for sensitive skin or post-procedure maintenance. 

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)

This extremely strong acid promotes faster cell turnover, revealing smoother, regenerated skin. It is often used in body peels. 

Ferulic Acid

An antioxidant that stabilises other antioxidants like vitamin C and E, boosting their effectiveness. You can find them in brightening peels or serums.

All images: Pexels

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