Should exfoliating be part of every haircare routine?

Healthy hair starts with a happy scalp, and so scalp care has become the latest beauty focus. The product vying for a spot in your bathroom cabinet? A purifying scalp scrub. But do you really need one? Well, probably yes. "The scalp is made of skin that requires care and maintenance, just like the rest of your body," advises trichologist Eva Proudman. "Exfoliation helps remove the build-up of dead skin cells and excess oils on the scalp to keep it balanced and encourage healthy hair growth. The act of massaging is therapeutic and a way to invigorate the scalp," she adds. Frédéric Fekkai, celebrity hairstylist and founder of haircare brand Fekkai, is also on-board, describing a scalp scrub as an ‘essential’ step in any haircare routine. "Having a thoroughly cleansed scalp means there is nothing blocking the hair follicles, which allows your hair to grow stronger and longer," he explains.

Regular exfoliation of the scalp can help with styling, too, adds Zoë Irwin, creative director at John Frieda Salons, who advises her clients to use a scrub regularly. "You get a very fresh blow-dry afterwards and it helps to keep volume better—I find that feeling of a cleansed, comfortable scalp quite addictive." Plus, if you also use a scalp serum to promote hair growth, this will allow it to penetrate deeper. So, who might benefit from adding a scalp scrub to their haircare arsenal? Virtually anyone, but particularly those who often experience dandruff, a dry, itchy or flaky scalp or greasy roots that look weighed down. And for serial dry shampoo users, it’ll help purge product build-up. Eva recommends using one once a week: "If used too often, a scrub can strip the scalp of natural oils which may cause it to overproduce oil to compensate." Equally, if you have a very sensitive scalp or suffer from psoriasis, it’s wise to seek advice from an expert before use.

A scalp scrub should be the first step in your hair cleansing routine. "Apply it along your centre parting and from ear to ear in a cross shape to ensure you’re massaging it evenly throughout your scalp," Frédéric advises. "It’s even better if you use it with a hair massager—it’s much more effective at removing build-up, resulting in shinier, strengthened strands." Zoë, meanwhile, likes to use a Manta Brush and apply a scoop of scrub directly to the brush to avoid wasting product on the lengths of the hair. Leave it on for one to two minutes before rinsing thoroughly and following with either shampoo and conditioner or just conditioner (some, but not all scalp scrubs replace the former).

Look for scrubs containing ingredients such as vitamin E, tea tree, peppermint, avocado, or coconut oil, which work together to hydrate and stimulate blood flow to the scalp, suggests Eva. Salicylic acid can help to dissolve stubborn flakes that trap build-up, adds Frédéric, while apple cider vinegar clarifies and balances the pH of the scalp. 

This article first appeared in Good Housekeeping UK in April 2023.