Minerals are experiencing a renaissance with skincare formulators

One legacy of the pandemic is a new health-conscious approach to our beauty routines. The idea that what you put into your body is reflected back at you in the mirror via the clarity and plumpness of your skin has led to a rise in vitamin supplementation both internally and topically. And while sloshing on a vitamin C serum to ward off the effects of pollution is to be applauded, you may be missing out on the benefits of another crucial ingredient group that could work in tandem with it.

Minerals sourced from rocks, water, and the earth are hardly new in skincare. The therapeutic benefits of dead sea salts, for example, have been harnessed for millennia to feed key minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sulphur, bromide, and potassium back into the body to improve the vitality of the skin. For this reason, the Middle Eastern brand Shiffa (available on desertcart.in) continues to utilise them in its body products.

A mineral’s composition also reflects the geology of the area, much in the same way as wine. In France alone, the thermal springs at La Roche-Posay are rich in selenium, which offers immediate relief when eczema, psoriasis and sensitivity cause angry red patches to bloom on the skin. Whereas in Vichy, the mineral water is dense in sodium bicarbonate.

It’s easy to see why minerals fit so neatly into the zeitgeist; they’re underpinned by credible science and bridge the gap between wellness and beauty. Simply put, minerals are found in every single skin layer. “They help to balance the skin’s pH levels and contribute to cell structure,” says Dr Alex Rubin, skin specialist and plastic surgeon at the Beverly Hills Wellness & Aesthetics Clinic in Dubai. “Minerals also help to stabilise the communication between cells, which, in turn, keeps the skin healthy and balanced. A decline in zinc, for example, can cause dermatitis and has also been known to increase breakouts.”

Of these minerals, magnesium is especially important as it plays a part in over 300 enzymatic reactions in our bodies, including bone health and a stronger skin barrier. “Magnesium regulates cell repair and regeneration and can also help protect the skin from external damage,” says Dr Rubin. “Low magnesium levels will reduce the number of fatty acids in the skin, enhancing lines and decreasing collagen production.” Find it in Augustinus Bader’s RichCream (available on desertcart.in), Drunk Elephant’s F-Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial Masque Hydratant (available on ubuy.co.in)—and most algae extracts. 

By design, algae is able to absorb minerals from seawater and contains more diverse compounds than terrestrial plants because it is an extremophile—meaning it thrives in harsh environmental conditions such as tidal plains and is able to protect itself from dehydration by retaining water and healing itself. Because of these processes, some algae have a dense concentration of magnesium, as well as zinc and sodium hyaluronate, which are beneficial for the skin. “Zinc is anti-inflammatory, so its an excellent choice for calming irritated skin,” says Dr Rubin. “Sodium hyaluronate works in a similar way to hyaluronic acid, by attracting and retaining moisture, but it is able to reach the deeper layers because it has a lower molecular weight.” For this reason, Kora Organics has made green algae the star ingredient in the Active Algae Lightweight Moisturiser (available on Nykaa).

Meanwhile, copper peptides are one of the buzziest new skincare heroes set to steal vitamin C’s crown when it comes to softening wrinkles and shielding against damaging free radicals. Copper peptides are naturally present in the body but levels decrease with age. “Studies have shown that copper has multiple benefits for the skin,” explains aesthetic doctor and skin expert, Dr Ana Mansouri. “It is known to play an important role in the body’s healing process by promoting anti-inflammatory pathways, meaning it’s great for treating scars and redness. Copper also acts as an essential co-enzyme in the process of producing collagen and elastin to improve our skin’s elasticity, and it is a potent antioxidant.”

Likewise, malachite, which is made up of over 50 per cent copper in its purest form, is the dark horse of the skincare world. The success of products such as the Wishful Clean Genie Cleansing Butter (available on Nykaa) and Oskia City Life Anti-Pollution Booster (available on lookfantastic.co.in) is thrusting this mineral into the limelight.

But if diamonds are more your style, you’ll be pleased to know that this sparkly mineral also brightens the skin. “Diamond particles carefully slough away dead skin cells, letting active ingredients sink in deeper for optimum results,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides MD FACS. “Skin is left plump and regenerated, with a transformative glow,” he adds, noting that the 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Serum (available on Nykaa) combines diamond powder with liquorice root to even out skin tone. All of which is to say, minerals deserve a place in your skincare routine

This piece originally appeared in the print edition of Harper's Bazaar Arabia