MAC Cosmetics National Make-up Artist shares five beauty truths you need to know

A reel about make-up hacks on one tab and a podcast on mindful beauty on the other, and yet I have questions on how one aces that glass-like glow. Is that ice dunk affecting my make-up’s longevity? Are those massage tools helping me keep that zit away? I’m sure all of us are searching for definite answers to our myriad questions. 

Somewhere between viral hacks and expert advice, it’s easy to lose sight of what actually works and what simply looks good on screen. In an industry that thrives on constant newness, knowing what to hold onto and what to let go off has become its own skill. To cut through the noise, we turn to Leiya Phinao Ningshen, National Make-up Artist, MAC Cosmetics India, to decode the trends, demystify the rituals, and bring the focus back on what truly makes a difference.

Harper's Bazaar: Is the primer still at its prime?

Leiya Phinao Ningshen: “Once the unquestioned first step of any serious or even casual make-up routine, primer still holds its ground. The modern approach leans toward hybridisation with skincare doubling up as prep, these streamlined routines can only go so far. A good primer, when used intentionally, continues to offer what skincare alone often cannot. Skincare does a lot, but primer still has its place in my routine, especially on days when I want everything to sit just right and stay that way.”

HB: Is layering SPF compatible with make-up application?

LPN: “Layering SPF with make-up has its own quiet rhythm. Instead of piling products on, a wiser routine is about choosing formulas that actually get along with my make-up base. Textures that melt into my skin instead of sitting on top of it, letting it breathe and move the way it wants to. Sunscreen is a step I don’t skip, especially when I know I’ll be out in the sun. Over time, it’s become one of those non-negotiables in my make-up routine to protect from harsh UV rays and early signs of ageing. When I find a formulation that feels right, SPF stops feeling like an extra layer and instead becomes part of the flow, quietly supporting whatever I put on next.”

HB: Rules of Skin prep: Trend fatigue vs real-life wearability…

LPN: “Skin prep is less about following every trend and more about what actually makes my make-up wear well in real life. I have learned that keeping it simple and intentional works best, too many layers can cause pilling or make everything slide, so I focus on lightweight, well absorbing products and give them time to settle. I aim for that middle ground plump, but not slippery. Hydration matters, but not to the point where my skin feels greasy, because that just doesn’t help create a good base. Trust that balance instead of overdoing it.”

HB: The ‘less base, more skin’ shift…

LPN: “It’s a shift increasingly visible in backstage and red carpet make-up trends, where skin is intentionally kept real, fresh, and luminous under the lights rather than masked with heavy coverage. Make-up artists are leaning into restraint, letting texture, natural tone, and subtle imperfections like freckles and beauty spots exist while using lightweight bases and strategic glow to enhance rather than conceal. It feels more modern and wearable, with less effort to hide flaws and more focus on enhancing what’s already there. The emphasis is now on breathable formulas, sheer-to-medium coverage, and skin that still looks like skin in motion, in light, and in real life.”

HB: Minimalism v/s maximalism… 

LPN: “Minimal base, and clean make-up that defined the look are still present, but they have started to feel more like one option rather than the standard. In its place, there’s a noticeable shift toward experimentation again. Richer textures, stronger eyes, sculpted features, and a renewed interest in make-up as expression rather than just polish. Maximalism is definitely re-entering the spotlight, but not in the overly heavy way like in the 70s and 80s. Instead, it feels more curated and intentional. Bold lips, graphic liner, statement blush are paired with fresh natural skin and the full look crafted in a way that still feels wearable. This trend shift is not about abandoning minimalism entirely but more about pushing beyond restraint where quiet skin days and expressive, maximal moments can exist side by side.”

Image credits:

Ashley Graham -https://www.instagram.com/brettrussellldn?igsh=MWFsdXlncHptNWxvZA==

Red Carpet - https://www.instagram.com/alejandromiralla?igsh=MzhjNG84Mm1raGZ4

Milan Moschino- Shot by Leiya on her phone  

Paris Giambattista Valli- Shot by Leiya on her phone

 

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