How this humble root is transforming beauty routines with science-backed benefits

My first encounter with ginseng—the root found in the misty hills of East Asia—was with a clarifying mask that quickly became a part of my daily ritual. Soon, ginseng appeared everywhere—from Korean beauty innovators to global brands. Buried underground for six years or more, the root transforms through steaming and drying into red ginseng, which is now a key ingredient in some of the most sought-after beauty serums today.

Tradition meets longevity

Ginseng has long been central to Ayurveda and traditional Korean medicine, informs dermatologist Dr Deepali Bhardwaj, founder, Skin & Hair Clinic. At a cellular level, ginseng acts as a quiet architect— rebuilding, renewing, and reinforcing the skin barrier. “It neutralises free radicals that speed up ageing,” says Niharika Jhunjhunwala, Founder and CEO, Clay Co. “It boosts collagen and supports skin firmness, crucial for a healthy and resilient complexion.” Dr Bhardwaj adds, “Red Korean ginseng is a potent adaptogen and antioxidant. Topically, it reduces inflammation, aids barrier repair, and improves microcirculation—benefiting dull, tired or mature skin.” She notes its bioactive compounds suit Indian skin, often challenged by environmental stress and pigmentation. “Consistent use brightens and deeply protects the skin.”

Beyond firming, ginseng hydrates, strengthens, and soothes, making it ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. “Its anti-inflammatory properties calm reactive skin,” points out Jhunjhunwala. These functions maintain skin that glows with health, adds Dr Bhardwaj. “Ginseng isn’t an exotic novelty; it’s functional, rooted in tradition and science,” the dermatologist shares. However, she warns, “Not all ginseng products are equal. Potency depends on processing. Fermentation, for example, enhances absorption of active compounds.”

The perfect partner

Ginseng blends well with other actives like hyaluronic acid, peptides, and ceramides, fitting seamlessly into multi-step routines. To newcomers, Dr Bhardwaj advises starting slowly, especially for sensitive or acne-prone skin. “It’s generally gentle, but potent. Unlike AHAs or BHAs, it doesn’t cause immediate peeling or tingling, but patch tests are advisable. Look for products with standardised ginsenoside levels and combine with hydration.”

 

Preserving the precious

If retinol is skincare’s taskmaster—relentless and effective—ginseng is the quiet therapist. It doesn’t offer overnight change, but works steadily, building strength from within. This slow beauty feels out of step with 24-hour result culture, but probably that is why it’s needed. “It embodies resilience and balance, core to holistic skincare,” says Jhunjhunwala.

Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Serum exemplifies this approach. “We source wild ginseng for its higher ginsenoside content,” shares Mini Sood Banerjee, Head of Marketing, AMOREPACIFIC Group. The serum uses every root part—flower, stem, and sap. Homegrown brand ClayCo sources pure Japanese ginseng sustainably, shares Jhunjhunwala.

With rising demand, questions around sustainability arise. Wild Korean ginseng, prized but endangered due to slow growth and scarcity, is under pressure. “Its rarity raises questions about protecting resources,” Banerjee points out. “Sulwhasoo commits to sustainable sourcing—protecting root and tradition.”

ClayCo’s Japanese ginseng follows slow farming, ensuring quality and environmental care—a welcome contrast to fast, chemical-driven beauty trends.

Paradigm shift

Ginseng bridges science and self-care. Its benefits are measurable but also emotional—encouraging slow, patient beauty rooted in wisdom beyond lab-made molecules. “Ginseng doesn’t promise miracles overnight,” reminds Banerjee.

Jhunjhunwala agrees and adds that consistent use strengthens defences and restores lasting glow. “In a market of quick fixes, ginseng is timeless. It honours history, patience, and inner strength,” she says.

Experts unanimously opine that ginseng’s quiet power builds the skin barrier, restores balance, and gradually revives healthy radiance. Perhaps that’s exactly what our skin—and routines—need today

All images: Courtesy the brands

This article originally appeared in the Harper's Bazaar India June-July print edition.

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