Expert-approved skincare routine to treat sun-damaged skin

While most of us want to spend our summers lying on a beach in a bikini that makes us feel like Kendall Jenner, it’s crucial to remember that over-exposure to the sun does more damage to our skin than good. The sun is to our skin what the Joker is to Batman. We can spend half our salaries on skincare products but until this doesn’t sink in, we are playing a losing game.

Not to be the dark cloud hanging over your Goa trips but according to a 2013 research, UV exposure from the sun is the cause for 80% of the damage we see on our skin over the years. Even if you lather yourself in sunscreen every day, the damage is done and it gets worse as we age. You may return from your vacation feeling like all your anxieties have been calmed by the sound of the waves but your skin might be sounding a battle cry. You need to know how to recognise it.

We spoke to Dr Geoffrey Vaz, MBBS and MD in dermatology, who gave us a list of early indicators of sun damage to look out for. He says, “Rough and uneven skin texture, loss in skin tone or pigment changes, actinic keratosis in the form of scaly skin, and rough patches or bumps are signs of sun damage. It can also manifest in the form of redness, itchy skin, skin peeling, burning and blistering.” 

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. Before answering how to tackle sun damage, we need to look at why the sun is so harmful to our skin in the first place. Sunburn is not the same as sun damage. When the UV rays of the sun hit unprotected skin over a prolonged period of time, it causes DNA changes at a cellular level. This accelerates the breaking down of collagen and slows down the production of elastin. These changes lead to fine lines, wrinkles, premature ageing and in extreme cases, skin cancer. Can we take a moment to admire the irony of the fact that the very sun that makes life on Earth possible also causes more damage to our skin than we fathom?

Is sun damage reversible?

Dr Chytra Anand, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and the founder of SkinQ, tells us that the only way to treat sun damage naturally is to not be exposed to the sun. However, unless we start living in caves, it is not possible. Dr Anand reminds us that even if we sit indoors all day long, the sunlight coming in through our windows is enough to make our skin call out for help. The cry gets louder as time passes and the damage becomes harder and harder to reverse. Any kind of pigments, spots, lines, redness, or itchiness can be a sign of damage.

She says, “When you start seeing pigments and patches on the skin or redness and itchiness, it is time to see a professional. One should start sun protection from six months of age. Using the right products from an early age is crucial.” 

At the risk of sounding like captain obvious- the first step to repairing the skin is to inculcate sunscreen in your everyday routine and reapply it every three hours. There is a reason it’s the first thing all skin experts recommend. We can’t emphasise enough the gargantuan need for everyone to treat sunblock like they treat their best friends- with love and blind trust. However, we have to be picky about the product we choose as we are about the people we let into our inner circle. 

When shopping for sunblock, don’t pick the first one you see on the shelf or trust the product that you see plastered all over your Instagram feed. Dr Vaz suggests a product that would actively wage war against UVA and UVB rays. And so, the first thing to keep an eye out for is a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Then look at the SPF which should ideally be between 30 and 50. Next, see the PA factor which should be a minimum of 3+ up to 4+ for optimum protection. The last thing to keep in mind is to choose a product that is water resistant so that it isn’t washed off by sweat. Are you taking notes?

Skincare for sun damage

If you were hoping that sun damage is a problem with a singular solution, we’re sorry to burst your bubble. Sunscreen is a good first step but it’s not the entire journey. There are a few other ways to treat all the harm the sun has done to our skin. For instance, did you know that adding a vitamin C serum in the form of L-Ascorbic acid (the most active form of Vit C) combined with Ferulic acid to the routine before applying sunscreen is the best form of protection against the sun?

Dr Anand explains, “One of the best actives for sun damage is L-Ascorbic acid and Ferulic acid. L-Ascorbic acid is the active form of vitamin C. When used in a 15% concentration, it has a photo-protective and skin-repairing function. This helps reduce the free-radical damage and the reactive oxygen species from the sun damage. It also proactively reduces sun damage and accelerates skin healing.” She adds, “L-Ascorbic acid is unstable by itself. So, Ferulic acid is required to stabilise the formulation and prevent oxidiation of the vitamin C.” 

Another way to reverse sun damage is by using products that contain active ingredients like AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), glycolic, lactic or tartaric acids that help in microexfoliation of the skin. They help to significantly reduce the pigmentation caused due to sun damage. According to Dr Vaz, there are also actives like niacinamides and peptides that aid in the repair of already damaged skin. He says, “Niacinamide operates as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent and can be effective on sun-damaged skin. Peptides are basically amino acids that can help in the production of collagen and elastin which helps maintain skin health. Peptides are also effective in improving skin tone and texture.” 

Exfoliation helps damaged skin tremendously in two ways. One, it removes dead skin cells that are on the surface. This lifts the superficial tan and helps to start the cell renewal process, bringing new, healthier skin cells to the surface. Second, exfoliation helps to keep the skin smooth, which is essential because rough skin tends to clog more, leading to spots and lines. 

Dr Anand says the need to exfoliate your skin becomes more frequent with age. According to her, if you are under 25, then you should exfoliate once or twice a month. If you are between 25-35 years of age, then you should include exfoliation in your routine every two weeks or once a week depending on how harsh the sun has been to your skin. And if you are over 35, you should exfoliate at least once or twice a week to control some sun damage. However, the thing to remember is that you cannot just use exfoliants on your face and step out. There is a process to follow to ensure that the products do what they are intended to and don’t end up adding to the damage. Dr Anand says, “People tend to forget that after using exfoliants, the barrier of the skin is stripped off, and it needs to be restored. One can use a clay-based mask to close the skin pores and follow it with a ceramide-based moisturizer for barrier protection.”

Make reading labels a habit

A habit that your skin will thank you for is reading the labels of all the products before they find a spot in your skincare routine. This goes a long way in not only reducing sun damage but also ensuring that you don’t accidentally use something that has the potential to make things worse.

Dr Vaz says, “Ingredients like triclosan, parabens, sulfates, formaldehyde, phthalates, fragrances and synthetic colours can often lead to sun damage.. Some sunscreen formulations have ingredients like para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), benzophenone , oxybenzone, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and homosalate that do more harm as they absorb sunlight instead of protecting your skin against it.”

It’s time to be more mindful of what you apply to your skin!