Did hair oiling just go from ick to slick?

“There was a time when we were told to hide it, to wash our hair before stepping out because having oil in it wasn’t 'cool’. And now it’s become this global wellness trend labelled the 'clean girl aesthetic’. That shift makes me really proud,” shares Diipa Büller-Khosla, founder of beauty brand, indē wild. She’s referring, of course, to the champi trend that’s taken over our feeds and routines. To the west, it might be news, but to India, it’s nostalgia. 

If you grew up in pre-Internet India, you either witnessed or participated in the weekly champi routine. This traditional head and scalp massage targets the head, neck, and shoulders using warm oils for nourishment and relaxation. Even Paracetamol played second fiddle to desi hair oils. “The iconic blue Parachute bottle is the first thing that comes to mind. It sat quietly in the corner of almost every Indian home, always within reach,” reveals Belgium-based influencer Sahira Taneja Dockx, who grew up in India. “Champi wasn’t a trend or a ritual we spoke about—it was simply a way of life.” Whether yours was coconut, almond, or castor-based, you were in for a real treat when that generous coating of oil seeped through your scalp, making for a heavenly deep-root massage. Take digital creator Aishwarya Kandpal, for instance, who grew up in Nainital, where the weather was perpetually dry. “This meant having dry hair and a drier scalp. My mother would often sit us on our verandah and apply coconut oil on a sunny weekend. Sometimes she would also add lemon drops to it. Even during my boards, I remember my mother oiling my hair because I’d be exhausted from studying, and she’d say it was important to cool down my head.”

It’s in our roots

 

But did the champi get a glow-up, or did we all just grow up? Celebrity makeup artist Elton Fernandez, who is also credited with setting up India’s first indie YouTube beauty channel, breaks it down. “People are exhausted. Hair oiling slows you down, calms the system, and doesn’t demand performance. It offers care without pressure, which feels especially relevant right now when emotional regulation is needed.” And, as Sahira points out, the trend has reached western shores too: “Many Western haircare brands have recently launched hair oils, and it is now becoming part of a broader cultural conversation around hair health and self-care. Even my European girlfriends now ask me for tips and brand recommendations, something that would have felt quite unusual not too long ago.”

From faux pas to fashionable

 

Fashion is cyclical, yes, but the same can be extended to lifestyle habits that turn fashionable every now and then, too. Case in point: the champi’s revival. Ironically, it went through its fair share of shaming, back when cancel culture was barely a thing. After all, this self-care ritual came with its own set of taunts and remarks. Stepping out with tel? Social sacrilege. Showing up at school with oil? A bait for the bullies. 

Ironically, Diipa, whose recently launched champi oil has created waves across the beauty industry, is an admitted champi convert. “To tell you the truth, I honestly didn’t love it back then the way I do now. It worked, but the oil was messy, would stain everything and became something my mom would chase us around the house for.” So what changed? “As I got older, I started to really appreciate it. And when I moved abroad, I realised how much I missed that time with my mom and that grounding, calming feeling that came with it. She has had the longest Rapunzel hair since I can remember, and in true Punjabi mom fashion, she wanted to make sure we all grew up to have that too.” Elton, who often witnessed his aunt oiling his cousin sisters’ hair, agrees- “It was calming and grounding. Only later did I realise it wasn’t just about hair, but about touch and reassurance.”

Thankfully, a lot has changed between then and now. What was considered greasy back then is the slick back look flaunted on red carpets today. The defamed champi look just turned trendsetter, and desi grandmas everywhere are saying, “I told you so!” The fact is, perception has changed, and not the ancient Indian wisdom of hair oiling from centuries ago. Sahira partly credits social media. “I honestly can’t remember the last time I watched a haircare routine online that didn’t include hair oiling. After being a bit neglectful about it throughout my twenties, social media actually influenced me to come back to hair oiling myself.”

Oil’s well that ends well

When done correctly, hair oiling doesn’t stop at moisturising the scalp; it also strengthens the strands, delivers nutrients to the follicles and lends a glossy sheen to the hair. But the benefits are beyond physical in nature. “It is such a low-lift, high-reward treatment. You can do it at home; you don’t need a professional or any special tools, and the results speak for themselves. And not to mention its aromatherapy benefits. I think we underestimate how much tension we carry on our scalp,” shares Diipa. 

In the 90s, hair oiling was conducive to what we call “girl talk” today, mother-daughter bonding sessions, and even gathering around the television to bide the time. And while spas do have the best tools (and views) at hand, sometimes, a heart-to-heart with your mum during champi cannot be upstaged. “I also love it as a family ritual. It gives us all some no-phone time to just hang out. Growing up, champi time was always boy-talk time with my mom. Now it’s time for my daughter Dua, my husband Oleg, and me to spend some real, uninterrupted time together. I think that’s something a lot of us are craving—something nurturing, restorative, and full of genuine care.”

Myths busted

It’s sticky, greasy and comes with odours best forgotten: untruer words were never spoken, that is, if you know where to look. In fact, the champi’s misconceptions run the gamut. Elton clarifies a common one, “That more is better—it isn’t. That oiling alone can fix all hair problems—it can’t. It’s meant to be supportive care, not a miracle solution.” Sahira, too, adopts the less-is-more philosophy, preferring to oil her hair for half an hour rather than leave it overnight: “It fits easily into my routine while still giving me great results.” 

If you're still unsure about whether to chami or not to champi, take it from Diipa. “Hair oiling is not only for Indian hair types. Everyone has a scalp, and everyone can benefit from nourishment. You just have to find the right formulation for your routine. And yes, hair oiling is for men, too, and can protect hair from direct, harsh sunlight, akin to a hair sunscreen. 

The long and short of it

Before adding to the cart, though, it’s important to consider the kind of hair oil that’s best suited for you. Coconut is ideal for frizzy or damaged hair and widely loved for its comparatively low molecular weight. For luscious locks straight out of a shampoo commercial, opt for castor oil (pro tip: apply it when lukewarm). Diipa’s indē wild champi oil, backed by Ayurveda, has the customers’ stamp of approval. When I used it (not sponsored), the lightness and floral undertones stood out. Though a bit heavy on the pocket, a few drops can go a long way in your wellness routine. 

Aishwarya, meanwhile, swears by the single-ingredient oils from Blend It Raw Apothecary. “They sell pure, cold-pressed oils with single ingredients that I’ve been using for years. Kama Ayurveda’s bhringraj oil has been a favourite. Juicy Chemistry does amazing hair oils, too.” 

For Elton, quality trumps all else: “I focus more on quality than brand names. Look for simple formulations, minimal fragrance and oils suited to your scalp and climate. The best oil is the one your scalp responds well to, not what’s trendiest or most expensive. Cold-pressed coconut or sesame oils or well-made herbal infusions from transparent brands are a good place to start. If your scalp feels calmer and balanced, and if getting a nice, intentional quiet massage calms and regulates your parasympathetic nervous system, it’s doing its job of repair and recovery!” 

Image credits: Getty Images

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