Conjuring Hacks

Base Skills 
There’s an art to faking perfect skin, and it starts with keeping things simple: only a gentle wash of coverage is necessary to give the impression of natural radiance. ‘The lighter the foundation, the better,’ says the make-up artist Wendy Rowe.‘A heavier formula will sit in and expose fine lines.’If you suffer from oiliness and feel a skin tint will not be robust enough to last the day, choose a powder – the more finely milled, the better – that will mattify without compromising on glow. Make-up is there to enhance your features, not cover them up completely, but if you need to disguise an area of redness, dark circles or the occasional blemish, try Lisa Eldridge’s ‘patchwork-skin’ technique of dotting on small amounts of concealer and gently buffing outwards.

Lip Reading 
For the most natural-looking lipstick, identifying your true ‘nude’ shade will quietly amplify lips and add definition. Try squeezing the tip of your finger until it changes colour – the shade it turns will give you your perfect match. Lipsticks with a sheer finish are a shortcut to everyday elegance; for low-maintenance colour, look for satin formulas rich in shea butter, or hydrating waxes such as jojoba and mimosa. To create volume on thinner lips, Rowe advises ‘adding a lighter-colour lipstick in the middle of the lip, as that will give the illusion of fullness’. Using a soft lip liner with a bigger surface area at the edges of the mouth will provide a more subtle finish. Alternatively, try a sheer gloss to fill and plump. 

Trompe-l'oeil 
According to the make-up artist Katie Jane Hughes, the key to achieving your desired mascara effect is focusing on the direction of your application. Sweeping your lashes outwards towards the temples as you brush will leave them in a feminine, feline position, whereas concentrating your efforts on pushing them upwards will make the eyes appear rounder and more doll-like. For an eyeshadow that defines without distraction, steer clear of shimmer or glitter and opt for a matte finish. A taupe or soft brown will look the most natural, but matching the shade to your blush colour (or even just using the same product on lids and cheeks) will bring everything together nicely. If you do want to add a bit of shine, a clear gloss patted on with your fingers will suffice. 

Magic Circles 
Colour still has a place in even the most understated make-up look. A sweep of blusher, eyeshadow or bronzer can enhance features beautifully – but its placement is key, explains Rowe. ‘Apply blush on the cheek under the middle of the eye and blend up towards the hairline in a half-moon shape,’ she says. This mimics a natural flush much better than a round blob on the apple of your cheek. You can also try using a cream bronzer or blush beneath, rather than on top of, your foundation for a gentler contouring effect. Gucci Westman, the founder of Westman Atelier, has a helpful tip for using blusher to disguise eye bags. ‘Bring the cheek colour up just a tiny bit higher – and try a little bit on the bridge of your nose,’ she advises. This will create a sense of lift, drawing attention away from your imperfections while giving the impression of a sun-kissed complexion.

This piece originally appeared in the April 2023 print edition of Harper's Bazaar UK