Acrylic nails: everything you need to know before booking an appointment

I've been obsessed with acrylic nails since I was a child. When I was around six or seven, my fascination with fake nails began, and I would spend my pocket money buying packs of crystal-encrusted false nails from Claire's accessories which would inevitably ping off one by one like tiny acrylic shrapnel, clearly not built to withstand my tomboyish bull-in-a-china-shop nature. A full set never lasted beyond the day, but that didn't stop me going back for more.

My love for sculpturally-pleasing nail extensions only grew as I did, longing for my own set of Lana Del Rey's elegant red acrylics throughout my teenage years. I was 16 when I finally had my first appointment ahead of my school prom, and a decade on, I've been visiting the salon for a set of acrylic nails every few weeks for the past four years.

Though acrylics have been a mainstay manicure option in the UK since the 1990s, the last few years have seen them fall out of favour, replaced by newer alternatives such as Gel X and BIAB.

I've tried almost all of the gel extensions out there, but have always ended up returning to my beloved, reliable acrylics. While builder gels have their benefits, I've also found they have their drawbacks; the hardiness of an acrylic manicure is something that can't be beaten or broken (despite my best efforts), while my experience with gel extensions left me with nails that had lifted away from their beds. Nice, I know.

So why is it that acrylics get such a bad rep in the nail scene? Marketing and misinformation on social media have some part to play, and then there's the recent 'clean girl' aesthetic, which infiltrated every part of the beauty sphere, including nails. In this beauty writer's opinion—and one that may well see me shunned from the industry—an acrylic set is still the best option out there for achieving a long-lasting, beautiful manicure, and it's high time it took back its crown.

If you're tempted to try them too, here's everything you need to know about acrylic nails according to the experts.

What are acrylic nails?

Acrylic nails have remained a stalwart of nail salon menus for years. It's easily recognisable by its application technique, which requires technicians to dip a brush into a pot of liquid and then into the powder to form the buildable product, which needs to be applied quickly to avoid it setting.

"Acrylic nails are created by mixing a liquid (liquid monomer) and powder (powder polymer) to form the acrylic substance," says founder of Nails by Mets and nail expert Metta Francis.

"This can either be applied on top of your nails for a natural overlay, over a plastic tip that has been glued onto the natural nail to create an extension, or used with a nail form to sculpt an extended tip with the acrylic."

The result is a hard, shell-like finish, which can then be painted with any manner of designs. Acrylic powders are available in a range of colours, but normal and gel polishes are often preferred to give the nail a glossy finish, with the latter needing to be cured under a UV lamp.

How long do acrylic nails last?

The longevity of your acrylic manicure will depend on how quickly your natural nails grow, but the average maintenance appointment is required around every 2-3 weeks.

"During a maintenance appointment, the area of growth between your extension and cuticle is buffed and re-filled with new acrylic to ensure the nail surface is left smooth and even," explains Senior Nail Technician at RAWR Beauty Dawn Male.

Getting your acrylics infilled is relatively quick when compared to the time required to take off and redo a full set. That said, the experts recommend getting your acrylics completely removed every couple of months to ensure your nails stay healthy.

What's the difference between BIAB and acrylic nails?

BIAB, also known as 'builder in a bottle' or 'builder gel', has become a vastly popular alternative to acrylics over the past few years, but there are slight differences between the two in terms of application and durability.

While acrylic nails are formed out of a powder and monomer mixture, BIAB comes as a pre-mixed gel formulation which can be applied straight onto the nail from the bottle. Both can be used to create longer extensions, but acrylic has a harder finish compared to the more flexible builder gel.

"BIAB extensions are created with a builder gel, which then cures under a UV lamp to harden and form a layer over your natural nail," explains Male. "They generally feel more lightweight compared to acrylic because of the formulation of the builder gel, versus the acrylic powder and monomer mixture."

"Both provide a protective layer and require infills, but builder gel is usually considered to have a more ‘natural’ finish," she adds.

What are the benefits of acrylic nails?

One of the biggest pulls of acrylics is their hardiness; they're typically more durable and long-lasting than gel extensions, and are a good option for those whose natural nails are weak, brittle and tricky to grow.

"They’re a great solution for nail biters, providing a strong barrier that helps break the habit and encourages natural nail growth underneath," notes Male.

What's more, acrylics provide arguably the best canvas for intricate nail designs; "In the hands of the right nail technician, they can look beautiful and natural, and they're a great nail medium for extensions and 3D work," says Francis.

Are acrylic nails really bad for you?

In short, no. When cared for and maintained properly, acrylic nails are no better or worse than other extension options. However, neglecting appointments can lead to damaging the natural nail, so it's best to be aware of the upkeep.

"As long as you follow the aftercare and maintenance procedures given by a professional nail technician, they can be a great enhancement," says Male. "Infills every two to three weeks help balance the weight of the extension and prevent unnecessary pressure on the natural nail, which can weaken the nail plate over time."

Some people can also be put off by the dust acrylic nails produce when being applied and removed, as well as the strong chemical smell. "Thanks to innovation, there are more odour-free liquid monomers; however, typically, the smell can be very strong," says Francis.

She recommends making sure your salon has good ventilation, such as dust extractors, and suggests wearing a mask if you're worried about breathing in the particles.

How to care for acrylic nails

It's probably clear by now that acrylic nails are a commitment and require regular maintenance appointments to keep your natural nails healthy. But in addition to that, there are things you can implement at home to ensure they stay looking their best in between salon visits.

Francis recommends "daily nail oil on the cuticles and under the nails (on the natural part) to keep them nourished."

You can also take vitamins to support overall nail health and ensure your natural beds are cared for under the acrylics; many brands offer all-in-one hair, nails and skin supplements, too.

How to remove acrylic nails

When it comes to taking your acrylic nails off, every expert stresses the importance of going to the salon.

"Incorrect removal can cause unnecessary damage, leading to nail thinning or sensitivity," says Male. "However, if you are unable to get to a salon straight away, you can file down your extensions from the tip to a suitable length to make them manageable in the meantime."

If getting to a salon isn't possible, Francis recommends following the steps below as a last resort:

— Before starting, apply cuticle oil around the nail bed to protect your natural nail

— Cut off as much of the length as possible, then file down the remaining acrylic by 90% so only a very thin layer remains

— You can then use a cotton pad soaked in acetone to wrap around the nails. Cover with foil to secure and leave for 15 minutes

— When the acrylic is ready to come off, it should be very soft. You can then use a wooden cuticle stick to remove. Only work on 2 fingers at a time when soaking off as the acetone will evaporate and the acrylic will go hard again

Lead image: Getty Images

This article originally appeared on Harper'sBazaar.com/uk


Also read: 8 summer 2025 nail trends to start wearing now

Also read: What exactly are BIAB nails?